May
Getting Started With Your First Cushion Cover
So I made my first cushion cover in spring 2022 when I was basically just trying to use up this massive pile of Red Heart Super Saver yarn I had sitting around. Bought it on sale without any real plan, you know how that goes. The whole thing took maybe three evenings while I was rewatching Parks and Rec for like the millionth time.
The easiest way to make a cushion cover is honestly just crocheting two identical squares and then seaming them together on three sides. You don’t need a fancy pattern or anything complicated. I’m gonna walk you through the basic method that actually works without making you want to throw your hook across the room.
What You Actually Need
First off, yarn. I used Red Heart Super Saver in that Soft White color because I had it, but honestly any worsted weight yarn works fine. You need around 400-500 yards for a standard 16×16 inch cushion cover, maybe more if you’re doing something bigger. I’ve also used Caron Simply Soft which is nicer feeling but more expensive. Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice is somewhere in the middle if you want something that doesn’t feel like scratchy acrylic but won’t break the bank.
Hook size depends on your yarn but usually a 5mm (H-8) or 5.5mm (I-9) works. I use whatever feels right when I do a test swatch, which I know people say to always do but let’s be real, half the time I just start and see what happens.
You’ll also need a yarn needle for weaving in ends and seaming, scissors, and obviously a cushion insert. You can get those at IKEA for like $3 or whatever they cost now.
Measuring Your Cushion Insert
This is important because making a cover that’s too big looks sloppy and too small means you’re gonna be wrestling with that insert trying to shove it in there. Measure your cushion insert and then make your crochet squares about an inch smaller than the actual cushion. So if you have a 16-inch insert, make 15-inch squares. This gives you that nice plump look instead of a saggy sad pillow.
The thing that really annoyed me about my first one was that I didn’t account for how much the fabric would stretch, so I made the squares the exact same size as my insert and then when I stuffed it in there it looked all deflated and weird. Had to make the whole thing smaller.
Basic Square Pattern Using Double Crochet
The simplest method is just making a basic granny square but bigger, or you can do solid squares with double crochet which is what I usually do because it works up faster.
Start with a foundation chain. For a 15-inch square with worsted weight yarn and a 5mm hook, chain around 50 stitches. But honestly you should do a gauge swatch first to see how many stitches per inch you’re getting, then multiply that by 15. Or just chain 50 and measure as you go, adjusting if needed.
Row 1: Double crochet in the fourth chain from hook (those skipped chains count as your first DC), then DC in each chain across. Chain 3, turn.
Row 2 and beyond: DC in each stitch across. The chain 3 at the beginning counts as your first DC. Chain 3, turn.
Keep going until your square measures 15 inches or whatever size you need. My cat kept trying to lay on the square while I was working on it which made counting rows basically impossible, so I just measured every few rows instead of keeping track.
Granny Square Version If You Want Texture
If you want that classic granny square look, start with a magic ring or chain 4 and slip stitch to form a ring.
Round 1: Chain 3 (counts as DC), work 2 DC in ring, chain 2, then *3 DC, chain 2* three more times. Slip stitch to top of beginning chain 3.
Round 2: Slip stitch to corner space, chain 3, work (2 DC, chain 2, 3 DC) in same corner space, chain 1, then in each corner space work (3 DC, chain 2, 3 DC) with chain 1 between each corner group. Slip stitch to join.
Continue adding rounds with 3 DC clusters in each corner space and chain 1 spaces along the sides until you reach your desired size. You’ll need to do a lot of rounds for a cushion cover, like probably 15-20 rounds depending on your tension.
Making The Back Panel
Once you’ve got your first square done, you gotta make another one exactly the same size. This is the boring part because it’s just repetition but whatever, put on a podcast or something. I made my second square while watching that dahmer documentary which was probably a weird choice but it kept me distracted enough that I didn’t get bored.
Some people do an envelope back with two overlapping panels which is actually smarter because then you can remove the cover to wash it without dealing with buttons or zippers, but I’m lazy so I just make two squares and seam them almost all the way around.
The Envelope Back Method
If you want to do the envelope style, make one full-size square for the front, then two rectangles for the back that overlap. Each rectangle should be about 2/3 the width of your cushion. So for a 15-inch cushion, make each back panel around 10 inches wide by 15 inches tall. When you overlap them, they’ll create the full 15×15 back with an opening in the middle.
Seaming Everything Together
Okay so you’ve got your two squares or your front and envelope back pieces. Now you gotta put them together without it looking like a mess.
Place your squares wrong sides together if you want the seam to show on the outside (which can look decorative), or right sides together if you want to hide the seam. I usually do wrong sides together because I think it looks more handmade in a good way, not in a “I don’t know what I’m doing” way.
You can seam with single crochet, slip stitch, or whip stitch using a yarn needle. Single crochet seaming is my favorite because it’s sturdy and creates a nice ridge.
Starting at one corner, insert your hook through both layers, yarn over and pull through, then single crochet through both layers working through both loops of each square. Work along three sides, leaving one side open to insert your cushion.
The corners can get bulky so just do one single crochet in the corner stitch instead of trying to add extras or—wait, actually some people do 3 SC in the corners to keep them from puckering but honestly for a cushion cover it doesn’t matter that much.
Inserting The Cushion
This is straightforward. Shove your cushion insert through the opening. If you made your cover the right size it should fit snugly but not require actual wrestling. Then single crochet across that last side to close it up.
The annoying thing here is that if you ever want to wash your cover, you’re gonna have to unpick that seam. That’s why the envelope back is genuinely better even though it’s more work upfront. I learned this after washing my first cushion cover and spending like 30 minutes picking out the seam stitches.
Different Stitch Patterns You Can Try
Once you’ve made a basic one, you might want to try different textures. The moss stitch (also called linen stitch or granite stitch) looks really nice for cushion covers and it’s still pretty easy.
Moss stitch pattern: Chain an even number.
Row 1: SC in second chain from hook, *chain 1, skip 1 chain, SC in next chain*, repeat across. Chain 1, turn.
Row 2: SC in first chain-1 space, *chain 1, SC in next chain-1 space*, repeat across. Chain 1, turn.
Repeat row 2 for the pattern. It creates this nice textured fabric that’s not too busy but more interesting than plain double crochet.
I made a cushion cover in moss stitch using Caron Simply Soft in like a gray color during summer 2024 and it actually turned out really nice, probably my favorite one I’ve done. Took longer than the basic DC version though because moss stitch works up slower.
The Bobble Stitch Thing
You can also add bobbles or popcorn stitches if you want something with more dimension. I tried this once with Bernat Blanket yarn which was a mistake because that yarn is so chunky that the bobbles looked ridiculous, like aggressive lumps all over the cushion. But with regular worsted weight it can look cute.
Basic bobble: Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops (you now have 2 loops on hook). Repeat this 4 more times in the same stitch so you have 6 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all 6 loops.
You can space bobbles however you want, like every 5 stitches or in a pattern. Just make sure to count carefully or you’ll end up with wonky spacing like I did on my first attempt.
Dealing With Gauge Issues
If your square is coming out way too small or too big, it’s a tension thing. Crochet tighter if it’s too loose and floppy, or looser if it’s too stiff and small. You can also change hook sizes instead of trying to adjust your natural tension.
I tend to crochet pretty loosely so I usually go down a hook size from what the yarn label recommends. Like if it says use a 5.5mm hook, I’ll use a 5mm. Otherwise my fabric has too much drape and you can see through it which looks weird on a cushion cover.
Yarn Color Combinations
You don’t have to stick with solid colors. Stripes are super easy, just change colors every few rows. I made one with alternating rows of cream and navy blue using Red Heart Super Saver and it looked pretty decent for something that lived on my couch.
For color changes, just finish your last stitch of the old color until you have 2 loops on your hook, then yarn over with the new color and pull through both loops. Carry the unused color along the side edge or cut it and weave in ends later, whichever you prefer. Carrying it is less weaving but you’ll have these little vertical lines along the edge where the carried yarn shows.
You could also do color blocking where you make squares in different colors and join them together, but that’s more piecing work and honestly sounds annoying to me.
Variegated Yarn
Variegated yarn can look really cool or really messy on cushion covers depending on the colorway. I used Lion Brand Mandala once in the Sphinx colorway and it pooled weird, creating these random color blotches instead of nice gradual changes. Some people are really good at planning for pooling but I just avoid variegated yarn for cushions now unless it’s a really subtle variation.
Washing And Care
Most acrylic yarns can go in the washing machine on gentle cycle and tumble dry low, which is honestly why I use them for cushion covers. They’re gonna get dirty living on your couch or bed, so you want something you can actually clean without hand washing.
If you used cotton yarn like Lily Sugar’n Cream or something, it might shrink in the dryer so air dry those. Wool obviously needs different care but who’s making cushion covers out of expensive wool yarn anyway.
The first time I washed my spring 2022 cushion cover I forgot it was in there and it went through a hot wash cycle and high heat dry, but Red Heart Super Saver is apparently indestructible because it came out fine. Maybe slightly fuzzier but fine.
Troubleshooting Common Problems
If your square is coming out as a trapezoid or parallelogram instead of an actual square, you’re either adding or losing stitches somewhere. Count your stitches at the end of each row to make sure you have the same number you started with. It’s tedious but it saves you from having to rip everything out later.
Curling edges usually mean your tension is too tight. Try using a bigger hook or consciously loosening up your stitches.
If the seams are gapping and you can see the cushion insert poking through, you didn’t seam tightly enough. Go back and add more slip stitches or single crochets in those gaps, or just accept it because honestly once it’s on your couch you probably won’t notice.
Adding Buttons Or Closures
For the envelope back style, you can add buttons for a decorative touch even though they’re not structurally necessary since the overlap holds everything in. Just sew on a few buttons with regular sewing thread, matching the placement on both panels.
Some people add a zipper which seems like way too much effort to me but if you’re good at sewing zippers into crochet fabric then go for it I guess. I tried once and it looked terrible so I stick with either the envelope style or just seaming it shut and accepting that washing it will be annoying.
You could also do ties or a button band along one edge but that’s getting into more complicated construction that I haven’t really messed with much.
