Feb
Starting With The Right Yarn Weight
So you’re gonna want something around a fingering or sport weight for summer, maybe DK at the absolute heaviest. I made my first actual wearable summer cardigan back in July 2022 when I was house-sitting for my sister and had literally nothing else to do except watch her plants not die. Used this Knit Picks CotLin yarn in that pale grey color and honestly it was perfect because cotton-linen blends don’t make you sweat like a full acrylic situation would.
The thing about lightweight cardigans is they’re supposed to drape, not sit on your shoulders like armor. So when you’re picking yarn, hold it up and let it hang from your fingers—if it’s got some weight and movement to it, that’s what you want. I’ve also used Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK and that worked pretty well, though it’s a bit stiffer than the CotLin.
Gauge Is Actually Important For Once
I know, I know, nobody wants to do a gauge swatch but with cardigans you really gotta because if it’s too tight it’ll pull across your back weird and if it’s too loose it’ll look like you’re wearing a bag. I learned this the hard way when I made one that could’ve fit two of me inside it. Just make a 4×4 inch square with whatever stitch pattern you’re using and measure it. If your pattern says 16 stitches = 4 inches and you’re getting 14, go down a hook size.
Hook Sizes That Work
For fingering weight I usually use a 4mm or 4.5mm hook. Sport weight needs about 5mm, maybe 5.5mm if you want it really drapey. DK weight you’re looking at 5.5mm to 6mm. But honestly just use whatever makes a fabric you like that’s not too stiff or too holey.
Construction Methods Because There’s Like Three Ways To Do This
You can work a cardigan top-down, bottom-up, or in pieces that you seam together. I hate seaming so I usually go for top-down raglan style ones. You start at the neck, increase at four points (the raglan lines), and just keep going until it’s long enough. Then you split for the armholes and work the body separate from the sleeves.
The annoying thing about top-down construction is you have to try it on like every five minutes to make sure the armholes are in the right place, and if you’re making it in summer you’re pulling this hot yarn project over your head repeatedly which kind of defeats the purpose of making summer clothing.
Bottom-Up Cardigans
These start at the hem and you work up to the armholes, then usually split for the back and two fronts. More pieces to keep track of but you can try on the body part without dealing with sleeves attached. I made one like this in spring 2023 using some Cascade Ultra Pima cotton and it actually turned out pretty good, though my cat kept attacking the working yarn and I had to lock her out of the room which she was very dramatic about.
Stitch Patterns That Actually Work
Simple stuff is your friend here. V-stitch makes a nice light fabric, shell stitch looks fancy but doesn’t take much brain power, and basic granny squares or rectangles sewn together can make a perfectly fine cardigan if you’re into that modular thing.
I’m personally obsessed with this offset shell pattern where you do like… 5 double crochet in one stitch, skip two, single crochet, skip two, and repeat. It makes this scalloped edge naturally and has enough negative space that air can actually move through it. Found it in some random YouTube video at 2am, not from an actual pattern book or anything.
Avoid These Stitches
Don’t use anything too dense like single crochet rows or HDC back and forth for the whole thing—it’ll be too heavy and hot. Also those fancy cable stitches that require front post and back post everything are just gonna make it bulky. Save that for winter sweaters.
Getting The Length Right
This depends on your body and what you actually want but most summer cardigans look best somewhere between hip-length and mid-thigh. Longer than that and it starts looking like a bathrobe unless you really commit to the duster coat vibe which, sure, could work.
I always make mine a bit shorter in front than back, maybe like 2 inches difference, because otherwise when you’re sitting down the front bunches up weird. You can do this by just working fewer rows on the front panels or if you’re doing top-down you can… actually I’m not sure how you’d do it top-down, maybe short rows? I usually just adjust it during blocking.
Sleeve Situations
Short sleeves, three-quarter sleeves, or those cap sleeves that barely count as sleeves all work great. Full long sleeves on a summer cardigan seems counterproductive unless you live somewhere with really aggressive air conditioning.
The most annoying thing I dealt with was making sleeves even. I’d finish one sleeve, start the second one, and somehow it would end up three inches shorter even though I swear I did the same number of rows. Now I use a row counter on my phone or just write hash marks on paper every 5 rows so I don’t have to count the actual rows later.
Sleeveless Options
You can totally just skip sleeves entirely and make it a vest situation. Just work armholes deep enough that it’s not cutting into your armpits—measure from your shoulder to like 2 inches below your actual armpit and that’s roughly where the armhole should end. Then you usually do a round or two of single crochet around the armhole edges so they don’t stretch out weird over time.
Edges And Bands
Most cardigans need some kind of edging along the front opening or they’ll curl and look unfinished. Single crochet is the standard choice—just work up one front edge, across the back neck, and down the other front edge. Some people do crab stitch (reverse single crochet) for a little decorative rope edge thing.
If you want buttons you need to plan for buttonholes during this edging phase. Chain 2 or 3, skip the same number of stitches, and continue with single crochet. Space them evenly, usually 5-7 buttons total depending on length. I always put the first one at the bustline because that’s where cardigans gap open the most and it’s annoying when that happens.
Or just leave it open without any closures, that works too. I made one in August last year that was meant to have buttons but I never got around to buying them and honestly I just wear it open all the time anyway so whatever.
Adjusting Patterns For Your Body
Most free patterns online are written for like medium size which might not be your size. The way I adjust is I measure my actual bust circumference, add about 4-6 inches for ease (you want it loose and drapey, not tight), and that’s my target measurement for the cardigan body.
If a pattern says to chain 120 and that’s too small, just add more chains in multiples of whatever the stitch repeat is. Like if your pattern repeats every 6 stitches, add 6 or 12 or 18 more chains. Same thing with decreasing the size—just take away chain stitches in those same multiples.
Blocking Makes A Huge Difference
I used to skip blocking because it seemed fussy but with cardigans it really does help. Get it wet (I just run mine under the tub faucet), squeeze out excess water with a towel, then pin it flat on a blocking mat or even just a carpet with some towels under it. Pin it to the measurements you want and let it dry completely.
This evens out your stitches, sets the drape, and makes everything look more professional. Cotton and cotton blends especially benefit from this because they kind of relax and soften up after blocking.
Free Patterns vs Paid Patterns
There’s tons of free cardigan patterns on Ravelry and YouTube. Some are great, some are confusing messes with typos in the actual instructions. Paid patterns are usually better edited and include multiple sizes but you can definitely make a perfectly good cardigan from free resources.
I’ve used patterns from MakeMake Crochet, Megmade with Love, and TL Yarn Crafts—all have free options. Also that one blog Crochet 365 Knit Too has some decent lightweight cardigan patterns though the website is kind of annoying to navigate.
Yarn Amounts You’ll Need
This varies wildly based on size and length but generally for a medium-sized hip-length cardigan you’re looking at 800-1200 yards of fingering weight, 600-900 yards of sport or DK weight. Always buy more than the pattern suggests because dye lots are real and running out of yarn 20 rows from the end is the worst feeling.
I usually buy an extra skein and just accept that I’ll have leftovers for a hat or something later.
