Apr
Where to Actually Find Free Patterns
So you’re gonna want to start with Ravelry because honestly it’s just the biggest database and you can filter by free patterns. I made my first real amigurumi in spring 2022, this little octopus thing, and I found the pattern there after scrolling through like fifty pages of stuff. The search function is kinda clunky but once you figure out the filters it’s fine.
Pinterest is actually useful too even though half the links are broken or lead to blogs that don’t exist anymore. You gotta click through to make sure the pattern is actually still available. I’ve been burned by that so many times where the photo looks perfect and then the blog just says “this post has been removed” or whatever.
YouTube is good if you’re more of a visual person. There are creators who do full video patterns and honestly sometimes that’s easier than trying to decode written instructions, especially for shaped pieces. I watched this one channel while I was making a bunny last summer and my cat kept walking across the yarn and I had to keep pausing the video.
Reading Amigurumi Patterns vs Regular Crochet
Okay so amigurumi patterns are written different than like, a blanket pattern. They work in continuous rounds usually, which means you don’t join at the end of each round. You just keep spiraling up and up. This was SO confusing to me at first because I’d learned crochet by making flat things.
You need a stitch marker. Just one of those little plastic loops or even a piece of different colored yarn. Mark your first stitch of the round so you know where you are. I cannot stress this enough because if you lose track you’ll end up with a lopsided whatever-you’re-making.
The abbreviations are pretty standard but here’s what you’ll see constantly:
- sc = single crochet (that’s your main stitch)
- inc = increase (two stitches in one stitch)
- dec = decrease (combining two stitches into one)
- ch = chain
- sl st = slip stitch
- rnd = round
Most amigurumi is just single crochet with increases and decreases to shape it. That’s literally it. Once you get that down you can make pretty much anything.
Yarn Choices and Why It Matters
I usually use Red Heart Super Saver because it’s cheap and you can get it anywhere. It’s acrylic so it’s washable which matters if you’re making toys for kids. The texture is a little squeaky but whatever, it works.
Bernat Softee Baby is good if you want something softer. I made a bear with that once and it actually felt nice to hold. Caron Simply Soft is another one that’s decent and comes in a ton of colors.
For amigurumi you want a tighter weave so the stuffing doesn’t show through. That means using a smaller hook than the yarn label recommends. If the yarn says use a 5mm hook, I’ll use a 3.5mm or 4mm. Your hand will hurt more but the finished piece looks better.
I tried making something with Wool-Ease once and it was fine but honestly for toys I don’t think you need to spend extra on fancy yarn. Save that for wearables or – actually I don’t even know, I mostly make toys anyway.
Hook Sizes and Tension
Most patterns will tell you what hook size to use but it’s really about your tension. I crochet pretty loose naturally so I always go down a hook size from what’s recommended. You might be the opposite.
Make a test swatch if you want but I never do. I just start the project and if it looks wrong after a few rounds I rip it out and try a different hook. Yeah it’s annoying but less annoying than making an entire toy and having it turn out weird.
The most common hook size for worsted weight yarn amigurumi is probably 3.5mm or 4mm. Keep a few sizes on hand because you’ll switch between them.
Stuffing Techniques
Polyfil stuffing from any craft store works fine. I buy the big bags from Walmart honestly. One thing that annoyed me SO MUCH when I was making that octopus in 2022 was that the stuffing kept getting lumpy no matter what I did. You have to pull it apart into smaller pieces before you stuff it in, not just shove whole chunks in there.
Stuff as you go, especially for pieces with small openings. If you wait until the end you’ll be trying to push stuffing through a tiny hole and it’s miserable. When you’re like three-quarters done with closing up the piece, that’s when you add the final stuffing.
Don’t overstuff. It stretches out your stitches and you’ll see the stuffing through the gaps. You want it firm but not like, rock hard. Squeeze it and it should give a little.
Safety Eyes and Faces
Those plastic safety eyes are everywhere and they’re easy to use. You poke them through from the front, then snap the washer on the back. But here’s the thing – you have to put them in BEFORE you finish stuffing because you need to reach inside to attach the washer.
I usually place them with pins first to see where they should go. Measure the distance between them because having uneven eyes makes the toy look drunk or something.
If you’re making toys for small kids you probably shouldn’t use safety eyes because they can still be pulled out. Embroider the face instead with black yarn. It takes longer but it’s actually safer despite the name “safety eyes” being kind of ironic.
Sewing Pieces Together
This is the worst part honestly. I hate assembly. You crochet all these pieces and then you have to sew them on and make them look even and it never looks as good as the pattern photo.
Use the same yarn you crocheted with for sewing. Thread it on a yarn needle (the plastic ones with big eyes work fine). Whip stitch around the edge of whatever you’re attaching, going through both the body piece and the limb or ear or whatever.
Pin things in place first. I use regular straight pins. Put the arms where you want them, pin them, look at it from all angles, adjust, then sew. Otherwise you’ll sew one arm on and then realize it’s way lower than the other arm.
I was watching The Great British Baking Show during summer 2024 while sewing together this complicated dragon pattern and I kept getting distracted and having to redo sections because I wasn’t paying attention.
Easy Patterns to Start With
Start with something simple like a ball or a blob creature. Seriously, those blob patterns where it’s just a sphere with eyes are perfect for learning. You practice all the basic shaping without having to deal with complicated assembly.
Simple animals work too. Look for patterns that are all one piece or have minimal parts. A jellyfish is good because it’s just a dome with tentacles. A snake is literally a tube that gets narrower at one end.
Avoid patterns with lots of color changes at first. Carrying yarn and switching colors adds complexity you don’t need when you’re learning.
Understanding Shaping
The magic of amigurumi is really just math. You start with a magic ring (or chain 2 and work in the second chain from hook, whatever works for you). Then you increase evenly around to make a flat circle. Keep increasing and it stays flat. Stop increasing and it curves into a bowl shape. Start decreasing and it becomes a sphere.
A typical sphere pattern goes like this: start with 6 stitches in the magic ring, then increase every stitch (12 stitches), then increase every other stitch (18), then every third stitch (24), and so on until it’s wide enough. Then you work even for a while (no increases or decreases). Then you decrease in the reverse pattern until it closes up.
Once you understand that concept you can honestly improvise your own patterns. Want a bigger head? Do more increase rounds. Want a longer body? Work more even rounds in the middle.
Troubleshooting Common Problems
If your piece is twisting or spiraling weird, you might be working in the wrong loops. Amigurumi is usually worked under both loops of the stitch. Some patterns specify back loop only or front loop only for texture but that should be written in the pattern.
If you have holes or gaps showing stuffing, your tension is too loose or you need a smaller hook. Sometimes you can fix small holes by going back with a needle and pulling the stitches tighter, but that’s annoying.
If your stitch count keeps being off, you’re probably missing stitches or accidentally adding extra ones. Count after every round, at least until you get more comfortable. Use that stitch marker.
Free Pattern Sources I Actually Use
Ravelry like I said. Also All About Ami has good free patterns and her instructions are really clear. Amigurumi Today posts free patterns but some are better than others quality-wise.
Club Crochet has free patterns with video tutorials which is helpful. Sarah Maker’s blog has some good ones too. Grace and Yarn has free mini amigurumi patterns that work up fast.
Just google “[animal name] amigurumi free pattern” and you’ll find options. Read the comments or reviews if there are any because sometimes patterns have errors and people will point them out.
When Patterns Don’t Make Sense
Sometimes you’ll get a pattern that’s just badly written or has mistakes. If the stitch count seems off or the instructions don’t match the photo, check the comments section or errata if there is one.
I’ve had patterns where the designer clearly made an error in the written instructions but the photo shows what it should look like. In those cases I just try to reverse engineer it from the photo or use common sense about what the shaping should be doing.
Don’t be afraid to modify patterns. If the ears look too small in your version, make them bigger. Add more rounds or start with more stitches in your magic ring. It’s not a legal document or whatever, you can change stuff.
Keeping Track of Rounds
Some people use row counters but I just use my stitch marker and count when I need to. If it’s a long pattern I’ll sometimes mark on the printed pattern or PDF with a pen after I complete each round so I don’t lose my place.
Taking breaks in the middle of a round is asking for trouble though. Try to at least finish the round you’re on before you put it down, otherwise you’ll come back and have no idea where you were.
Yarn Weight Conversions
Most free patterns use worsted weight (number 4) yarn. If you want to make it bigger use bulky yarn and a bigger hook. Smaller, use DK or sport weight with a smaller hook. The proportions stay the same basically.
I made a tiny version of that octopus pattern using thread and a 1.5mm hook once and it was like an inch tall. Same pattern, totally different result just from yarn weight.
Time Investment Reality Check
A simple amigurumi takes me maybe 2-3 hours. Something complicated with lots of parts and details can take like 8-10 hours or more. Assembly always takes longer than you think it will.
Don’t start a complicated project the day before you need it as a gift. I’ve done that and ended up staying up until 2am sewing on arms and being mad about it.
Weaving in Ends
You’re gonna have so many ends to weave in. Every time you start or finish a piece, that’s two ends. Every color change is more ends. I use a yarn needle and weave them through the inside of the stitches, change direction, pull tight, and cut close.
Some people say to leave long tails and use them for sewing pieces together which is smart if you remember to do it. I always forget and cut them short and then have to add new yarn for assembly.
Just weave them in as you go if you can stand it. Having fifteen ends to weave in at the end of a project is depressing.
